Our day started at 7am today - departing our Agra hotel and jumping into rickshaws to head to the bus station. We arrive, buy snacks & water, load our backpacks into the hold and board the coach to Jaipur along with a whole raft of other foreign tourists and a handful of locals.
I'm not entirely sure this coach would pass an MOT and I'm not sure it would have passed in 1953 either. The seats are ripped, oily & dirty from pollution and it also seems to be home to a decent size family of Mosquitos. There are mounted fans, out of order, dangling precariously off the sides of the bus and the windows look like they haven't been washed since 1953 either. After digging out the super strength Deet I kick back and make the most of the 5.5hr journey ahead.
I quickly fall asleep and get woken up thinking I'm being catapulted into the ether. Turns out we've gone over a traffic slowing hump at 60mph and I'm on the back seat making for an interesting ride. The journey continued like this for the rest of the drive. I will never moan about UK potholes again - the things here could rival a quarry! After a few non scheduled stops, one was to fix something broken and the others I'm sure were to pick up the drivers friends, we make it into Jaipur and the Jaipur Inn.
This inn is a guest house run by a local family - it's very pretty and clean. After a quick shower and lunch I head up to the roof terrace to check out the view and enjoy some time away from the others with my book. It's a welcome break after a full on 48hrs!
At 5:30pm we head out for an orientation Rickshaw ride and stop at the main square where Ricky takes us to the top of a building giving us a birds eye view of the action. The square reminds me of Marrakech - a hubbub of people, traffic, shops, spice traders, stray dogs, cars honking (naturally) just that this square has a modest fountain in the middle and slightly fewer food stalls. On the platform we're on, there are three monkeys including another baby. I am again transfixed by them but Ricky tells us not to go too near them as they are very aggressive. He tells us this is only if they are directly approached so I snap away two metres from them. We head back down, past a Hindu temple saying Namaste & bowing our head to the priest who is dressed in orange (holy). Erin & Karen buy a sari where we meet the best salesman in the world before heading onto The Bissau Palace.
The building sits in what is now Jaipur's red light district however was used during British colonial rule. As we approach the palace (a grand mansion house with a wrap around veranda) the noises from the street disappear and an air of calm & tranquility descends. The chairs on the veranda are highlighted by the candles and the soft lighting welcomes us to come in via the fountain and bowls filled with floating rose petals. As we get inside the walls are covered in floral rich wallpaper of golds and reds, there are plush sofas, shelves of books in glass cases, antique weaponry on display, a piano in the corner, old black & white photos, Indian military art and a mounted tigers head hanging. It feels very sumptuous in comparison to our recent surroundings are we are led into a lounge area for cocktails where I am transported back to the era of British rule.
After drinks we head up to the rooftop terrace for our meal. It's a stunning setting and we are serenaded by a sitar player and drummer. After many laughs over the dinner table, including me telling everyone how Erin had earlier asked me what it was like wearing thongs outside especially with the breeze (I replied saying it doesn't bother me and I wear a mixture of French knickers & thongs) to which she replied quickly saying that she was talking about my flip flops. Oops. Ozzie translator required next time!
Erin has become a great travel companion. I've been enjoying learning about her green tea business back in Oz and she's made me feel inspired again. She's super switched on yet keen to learn and discover.
So off to bed I go....to the sound of fire crackers (festival time), drumming and of course.....the obligatory tooting.
I'm surprised you didn't get the thongs reference, I'm sure you've laughed at me before! Glad you're having a fab time, keep up the blog. Mails xox
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