I arrive at the centre, snaking my way through the alley ways to reach the colourful community venue and walk up to the hall where a small group is gathered. There is a girl having Reiki on the stage and there is complete silence. I sneeze.
It is a mixed group, a girl with long greasy hair wearing an AC/DC t-shirt, a couple of young guys and a middle aged woman in a floaty green skirt. The reiki finishes, some men arrive with musical instruments and we're invited up on to the stage where we sit on cushioned mats. The meditation leader explains that a Raga will be performed (a special Indian melody chosen specifically for this morning's practise) and we are asked to get comfortable, sit still, close our eyes and open our hearts. We sit in darkness, except for some candles burning. The meditation leader opens the hour by reciting 'Om Shanti' in a way that the sound vibrates fervently from his stomach. Om is one of Hinduism's most revered symbols and words. It is a sacred mantra that symbolises creation, maintenance and destruction of the universe. Buddhists believe that if you say this word enough it leads you into a blissful trance. The music begins, a hypnotising blend of sitar and drum that provide a rhythm and focal point. I take a deep breath and sit upright with my legs crossed. I shuffle around to get comfortable and wrestle with unwelcome and benign thoughts that flood uninvited into my mind. I sweep them away yet soon enough more hustle their way in. I fight the urge to sneeze again, move my feet which have gone dead beneath me and generally struggle to let go.
Eventually I give in and lie down. The internal battle with my mind continues for a while but after a while the thoughts vacate and all I remember is stillness. I'm not sure if I fall asleep or if I was in some other place but I come around quickly and feel totally peaceful when the hour is done. I go back to my room for another hour of sleep.
Ready to start my day officially I head straight to a shop where I can hire a bicycle. My trusty steed is aubergine in colour and has 'Miss India' emblazoned down the side of it. I navigate my way through the streets of Fort Cochin stopping at spice shops, the St Francis Church (where the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama was originally buried), the Dutch Cemetery, Santa Cruz Basilica and the Chinese Fishing nets. I'm wobbly on my two wheels at first but then I quickly get used to riding 'Miss India' around this quaint and homely town, ringing my bell and skilfully avoiding pedestrians, goats and tuk tuks.
This is an industrial port town where the spice trade still draws many visitors and associated export commerce. There is a large Jewish community still here today and the signs of Christianity are the strongest I have seen in India with many churches and shrines depicting Jesus and Mother Teresa. The town has a cosmopolitan vibe yet retains the slow pace of all things Keralan - described by locals (and India Tourism) as God's Own Country.
After some shopping (I'm slightly concerned how I'm going to fit everything into my backpack!!) I diligently return Miss India to her owner and head back for a much needed shower.
I shower, turn the TV on and can work out from the visuals on the news that Barack Obama has retained the US presidency. I breathe a small sigh of relief and head straight out again.
This time I stop a tuk tuk and get him to take me to an ATM, followed by a pharmacy. As part of our Ayurvedic treatment at Keraleeyam, a face ointment was applied and I'm convinced this stuff has miracle ingredients. I'm told I can only buy the goods from a pharmacy so manage to locate one and purchase ten tubes to bring home. (If anyone wants to buy some please let me know!) I'm seriously considering importing the stuff to the UK (inspired by Erin's entrepreneurial influence).
With my precious cargo in tow I head to The Malabar Hotel and their Junction restaurant (part of The Relaix & Chateux group). It's some much needed R&R after the backpacker lifestyle for the past three weeks and I sit quaffing some White Indian Chenin Blanc by the infinity pool surrounded by beautiful lanterns hanging in the trees.
I meet some friendly young/oldies looking like they may be on a Saga holiday for solos including Roger the Canadian who I notice is flirting outrageously with each of the individual women on the tour, out of earshot of one another of course. He's quite the charmer! I hear him comment to one of the ladies getting out of the pool after a dip "Hey Miss McHotty" and she giggles like a 12 year old school girl super grateful for this lovely flattery. From this point on she has a glint in her eye pointed in lucky Roger's direction. When she towels off and disappears he turns his attentions to one of the other, maturer ladies who flutters her eyelashes and bends to one side teasingly. Roger is definitely hedging his bets and this looks like a dead cert strategy by the looks of things.
It's dinner for one for me but it's heavenly. Lamb Kofta in Rogan Josh sauce and my first beef in three weeks - a gourmet burger with tomato sorbet and chilli relish. I feel super guilty for eating it however reassure myself that I'm in a predominantly Christian town so hopefully I'm not offending toooooooo many Hindu friends - besides it's on the menu...(OK OK.....I still feel like I'm being blasphemous / disrespectful). But it was delicious!...
It's chocolate samosas with mango coulis to finish and I roll home. The Head Chef has invited me back as his personal guest tomorrow...promising that I can use the pool (despite not being a resident at the hotel).
No doubt he is turning his charm to the next solo female as soon as I've left i.e. I think I've just been Rogered - and not in a good way.
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